Showing posts with label Pentax. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Pentax. Show all posts

Sunday, February 8, 2015

C-Mount lenses on MFT (micro four thirds)

Micro Four Thirds was unique among interchangeable lens cameras when it was introduced. It was smaller than DSLRs, yet had a decent sized sensor - the same size as Olympus and Panasonic DSLRs at the time. Almost 70% the area of a Canon APS-C sensor it was capable of delivering very decent quality. What made it really unique was the very short "flange distance" made possible by not using a mirror as is "normal" in an SLR.

The flange distance is the distance from the sensor to the lens mount surface of the camera. Nikon F-Mount DSLRs for example have a flange distance of 46.5mm. Lenses where the rear element gets beyond this point risk being smashed by the mirror when taking a picture. Remember in a DSLR, that mirror is directing light upwards to the viewfinder, and when you press the shutter, it will swing upwards.

Micro Four Thirds uses a 19.25mm flange distance. This means that if A Nikon F-mount lens were held 27.25mm away from the Micro Four Thirds camera's mount over the sensor, it would be able to focus properly on the sensor, since it's the same distance it would be in a regular Nikon F-Mount camera.

In a case like this, adapters are made to let users mount the lens onto their Micro Four thirds cameras. Normally they are manual only, as no electric signals will get from the lens to the camera. This is fine though, as old lenses usually have the wonderful feature of an aperture ring. It's just like aperture priority in regular use, except now your aperture control is a direct mechanical link. Sounds better actually :)


C-Mount lenses refer to a range of lenses used on CCTV security cameras, 16mm movie cameras, machine vision and robotic applications etc. The problem with assessing one of these to determine if it will work on a MFT camera properly is the image circle of C-Mount is not standard. The Sensor for These can range from 8mm (also listed as 1/3") to 25mm (1"). A 1" format lens is generally more expensive, but is more likely to cover the MFT sensor. Some 2/3" format lenses can work, but generally result in vignetting, and poor quality edge/corner images.


C-Mounts are fun because they're generally tiny. After all - if you have a 25mm adapted DSLR lens, it's fairly hefty on a small MFT camera. Drop in a C-mount 25mm F1.4 and it's still tiny! Go cheap of course, and the quality wont match the DSLR lens. Indeed, most C-Mount lenses result in a picture far from perfect - however, they are cheap, fast can be capable of good center clarity, and can give off a unique swirling bokeh that when utilized is hard to match.



The Lenses:


A smattering of c-mount lenses. Clockwise from top left: General Electric 25mm F1.4, Canon PHF 35mm F1.2, Cosmicar 75mm F1.4, Wollensak 25mm F1.5, Pentax 25mm F1.4.


One of my favorites. A Wollensak 25mm F1.5. Before fast lenses were common on Micro Four Thirds, these small 25mm lenses were quite popular. This originally was meant for old film video cameras. Some vignetting, but recoverable. Lovely render!


This lens looks rather interesting, but vignettes too much at the corners. A General Electric 25mm F1.4 TV lens. Much cheaper than the Wollensak, and the image quality showed it too.


Pentax 25mm F1.4. If one were looking for better quality than the cheap c-mounts from china, this was the one to get. For about $100, this gave a more neutral picture compared to the Wollensak. Other than the extreme corners, there is less vignetting, color was more neutral, though it wasn't quite as sharp. Still a decent lens, and extremely smooth focus action.


The Cosmicar 75mm F1.4. Cosmicar was a Pentax division. I'm not sure if it was a purchase by Pentax, or if it originated from them, but Pentax is now Ricoh. Pentax was merged into Hoya and Ricoh purchased the imaging division.


Another angle showing the nice large front element. While it's large, it's not bad to handle.


This is the Canon PHF 35mm F1.2. It required heavy modding to fit on here. When I work this hard on something I generally like it more than I should. That said, I can't help but love how sharp this lens gets in the center. Face shots of my daughter are wonderful with this, and the focus plane curves forwards towards the edges - this curve makes facial features go out of focus FAST - not optimal, but it if you're wanting to blur, this will satisfy.



The adapter itself is little more than a MFT mount, on a flat washer like bit of metal, with a threaded inset. There are several makes and models available. If you're after a nice thin one to maximize adapting lenses, consider the pictures below.




Sample images:

Christmas tree light bokeh! This was shot with the canon PHF 35mm at F1.2. note the shape of the bokeh circles as the lights are positioned towards the edges and corners of the frame.





Here's a few samples from the above lenses:



The 75mm F1.4 Cosmicar delivers enough coverage and sharpness to pass mustard. While it starts off bright and decent enough at that aperture, stopping down doesn't aid it that much. That said, the bokeh is superb giving a smooth render.


The 25mm F1.5 Wollensak shows a heavier vignette that one would be used to  with standard commercial lenses. It's decently sharp in the center and resists veiling and ghosting enough to be used as an everyday lens. Size as pictured above also helps that designation. Being easy to carry has it's perks! If the best camera is the one you have with you, then being able the carry a good camera means a lot too.


Shot with the Canon PHF 35mm at F1.2 You can see the difference compared to the above Wollensak. The bokeh certainly stands out more - though in comparison to the 75mm, it's not quite as smooth. Note also the curvature of the keyboard, and the heavy vignette. This lens is extraordinarily sharp in the center wide open, yet fails miserably in the corners. This actually makes the lens quite capable of adding focus to a picture. Viewers eyes will be attracted to the sharp center. This can add an artistic element to face shots, and the curvature and character of the render does nicely with lights in dark shots.


The best place to get C-mount lenses imo is ebay.com. While the Pentax 25mm F1.4 was sold up until recently, it was discontinued. Lenses like the Wollensak have shot up in price to astounding levels due to their rarity. I think most legacy lenses would only have their value rise over time as better mirrorless cameras with better manual focus functions (like focus peaking) become available.


For more information on c-mount (cine) lenses, there is the cine-lenses sub-forum at mflenses.com with numerous threads of information and the c-mount on M4/3 group on facebook is quite lively.

Sunday, April 20, 2014

Evaluating the cheap focal reducer with "real world" images: part 2

I've been a bit tardy in this review. Poor weather and a busy job would to that I guess. This time though I've gotten a decent variety of images for testing 3 fast lenses with the cheap focal reducer.

The Bower (Samyang) 24mm F1.4 (17mm F1.0), Vivitar (Samyang) 85mm F1.4 (61mm F1.0) and a special case - Spiratone 135mm F1.8 (97mm F1.3).

So, here we have a wide 35mm Equivalent, short-tele/long portrait ~120mm equivalent, and telefocal ~200mm equivalent. When we say equivalent, we're simply comparing focal length of these lenses with what we would need on a 35mm "full frame" sensor to get the same angle of view.

For Part 1, click HERE.




These shots are from the Bower 24mm F1.4 (EF). As far as fast wide lenses go for full frame cameras, this is wide, fast and cheap. So you probably wont expect good optical quality, however I think anyone would be surprised to see how well it does. This is also a good choice for astro-photography.
ISO 200 1/2500 F2.8
ISO 200 1/100 F1.4

ISO 200 1/320 F2.0

ISO 200 1/800 F2.4

ISO 200 1/30 F1.4

ISO 200 1/25 F2.8

ISO 250 1/125 F2.0


Next up we have the Vivitar 85mm F1.4 (K). The lens has been modified slightly. Being a Pentax K mount, it will just work on any EF adapter really, but the lever gets in the way of the mirror on my 5D, so I clipped it off with a dremel. This lens is just fantastic on Full Frame. It's not too long to make it unwieldy, and the smooth bokeh is breathtaking. 
ISO 200 1/640 F2.8

ISO 400 1/10 F1.8

ISO 640 1/160 F1.4

ISO 200 1/500 F1.4

ISO 200 1/800 F1.4


Finally, here's pictures from the titan of the bunch, the Spiratone 135mm F1.8 (YS mount with F adapter). This lens is impressive. It's not much longer than the 85mm, but it's 82mm filter and massive elements immediately tell your brain to put some strength in your arm when picking this up. Then you're surprised because you still should have used a bit more. It's heavy, solid, and will built. It's all metal, with straight, square lines. While prone to flare, it can deliver sharp detail, although some processing may be needed to bring out the best from this beast.
ISO 200 1/1600 F1.8

ISO 200 1/1600 F1.8

ISO 200 1/2500 F2.8

ISO 200 1/1250 F1.8




I'll have to get around to posting how my EP3 looks with these lenses.

Hope you enjoyed this as much as I do :) GAS (Gear Acquisition Syndrome) can be costly, but ofter buying used lenses can be quite cheap.


The focal reducer has gone beyond my expectations. The wider focal lengths are more usable, and the stop extra more light is fantastic. The center of the image shows a small boost in sharpness as well, and since the image is wider, it's also less prone to shake giving a couple advantages for sharper pictures. I haven't found any increase in flare, or odd bokeh.

The 24mm in particular is a favorite of mine, and has supplanted the Panasonic Leica 25mm F1.4 as the "standard" lens on my EP3. It's a combination of the 25mm Focal length, and F1.0 speed.



Happy Shooting!

Thursday, March 13, 2014

Evaluating the cheap focal reducer with "real world" images: part 1


Focal reducers really set something off with the mirrorless world. Not only for Micro Fourthirds, which is my "main" system, but also APS-C systems from Fuji and Nex.

Under a Focal reducer, the APS-C systems are "full frame" equivalent, giving the same image with the same lens for a photographer. Micro Fourthirds still gives a bit of a crop with 1.44x, but that's still pretty usable.

I figured I'll try some older lenses and see what I can get with this focal reducer adapter. Not only can it be used with old Full frame lenses, but there's a couple APS-C lenses out there as well, which would be very well utilized to deliver a wide image. I don't have many APS-C coverage lenses, because most would not have an aperture ring. I do have a samyang 8mm fisheye for APS-C. Looking forward to their 10mm lens.



The following Shots are from a Vivitar 17mm F3.5 (Nikon F). The lens is among the widest available from old film days, and delivers decent quality stopped down to F5.6. On the focal reducer, it's still not that fast, bearing F2.5, but it is wider than most MFT lenses, coming in at 12.2mm



ISO 2000 1/25s F5.6

ISO 320 1s F5.6

ISO 3200 1/25s F5.6



These shots are from the 8mm Samyang (Nikon F). Though it's a recent APS-C lens, it's completely manual, including the aperture ring. It should be noted that my copy never focused properly, and has been modified to achieve proper focus. Using this fisheye is very fun. While it is possible to "de-fish" the image to a rectilinear the fun and utility of a fisheye lies in the distorted projection. Ultra wide rectilinear lenses show heavy stretching towards the edge of an image.


ISO 400 1/20s F3.5

ISO 400 1/100 F5.6


ISO 400 1/80s F5.6

ISO 200 1/6s

ISO 200 1/2.5s F3.5

ISO 200 1/6s F5.6




These shots are from the Kiron 28mm F2 (Nikon F). Of all my old lenses, the quality here is probably the lowest. It's not a BAD lens. Few lenses are actually "BAD" This lens when stopped down is decent, but wide open is a little soft. Colors come out fairly well though. My pictures are probably looking repetitive here since my "testing" is really on my way home from my day job. I suck at street photography, so here's what we get. The third picture here looks extremely soft towards the bottom. All in all, I think the lens is quite usable. These pictures look nice and bright when in reality it was fairly dark outside. This is an effective 20mm F1.4, perhaps I should run a test of this vs the venerable 20mm F1.7.


ISO 400 1/80s F2

ISO 400 1/50s F2.8

ISO 500 1/20s

ISO 1250 1/40s F2

ISO 640 1/40s F2




These are the Canon 55mm F1.2 SSC (FD). This mount was converted to EF using the popular "EdMika" conversion kit. This is where we leave behind common thought and see what a $500 40mm F0.86 lens will look like. The focal reducer and 50 F1.2 combine to form a shockingly fast and capable lens. Shots here range from wide open (F1.2) to F2.


ISO 640 1/40s

ISO 200 1/40s F1.2

ISO 400 1/60s F1.2


ISO 200 1/60s

ISO 500 1/60s F1.2

ISO 400 1/60s F1.4



Up next I'll be trying lenses like the 85mm F1.4 and 24mm F1.4 Samyang lenses. I decided to break it up a little since the page loading gets heavy with too many pictures. 

It's interesting to note that even fast lenses on the focal reducer can be sharp and while it wont have as much contrast as stopping down a little, they can have enough contrast.

NB: to add ISO and shutter speed on these pictures comments. Blogger strips EXIF (why?!)